Repair Parts -- new and used -- moderated newsgroup for trading > Dryer Parts
> Color chips/flakes for garage concrete floor paint
Color chips/flakes for garage concrete floor paint
For Sale: Color chips/flakes for garage concrete floor paint
Subject Color chips/flakes for garage concrete floor paint
Ad is submitted by poster:
Just let us know what colors and ratio you want!
Ask us for larger quantities too, Thanks!
A: This is strictly a matter of personal preference. Commercial garage flooring products give you ~ 1 lb per 1-Car garage (average 1# per 300-350 square feet). This is a very light coverage. If you wanted full coverage of chips where you could not see any of the basecoat underneath, it would take 60 lbs per 1-car garage (300-350 ft2). Full coverage is usually completed in 2 applications. Obviously this is a pretty wide range from 1 pound to 60 pounds. So, if you are just looking for the sparse look of a commercial garage floor product then get 1 pound per 300-350 square feet. If you are looking for a more unique look then order more. Also, we can offer a blend of several different colors as well. More colors give your floor that multi-dimensional look.
Q: I have a colored water based epoxy primer and color I was going to use in a residential garage.Do you just broadcast spread your product by hand after applying the paint? Would you recommend topcoating/clearcoating after applying it. If so with what? Thanks!
A: Yes. Simply broadcast the chips into the wet coating. Some people use a handheld broadcast fertilizer spreader (Home Depot). Others simply broadcast by hand. If by hand, make sure you throw the product UP instead of down. It makes sense to practice on a piece of plastic first and then recover the practice chips from the clean plastic. Next, I would caution you on using a water-based product. In general, these products are weak and leave a micro porous surface. In addition to having weak adhesive properties, the surface is more susceptible to dirt and failure. Those products are typically about 50% water. So, if you spread out a coat at about 10 mils thick it will only be 5 mils thick when it dries. Basically, you can expect 50% of what you spread to evaporate. Yikes! Just like anything else, when you lose 50% of your mass... you shrink (which stresses the film). But, the worst part is that as the water evaporates and makes its way to the surface it leaves a trail (micro pour) to the surface. Each one of these millions of micro pours is a cavity for dirt, oil/chemicals, and bacteria to attack the film. The same phenomenon will also happen with solvent-based products. However, it is much less prevalent because solvents evaporate much more quickly than water. Since a greater percentage of the solvent evaporates (as compared to water) before film formation of the coating, the coating can “re-wet” itself and fill in the trail. The pours are created once film formation starts and the coating is not liquid enough to fill in the pour. Our chips will work with solventborne or waterborne products, however if you want to do this once and have it last, I would recommend: Prime with 100% Solids Epoxy primer Apply a 100% Solids Epoxy Basecoat Sprinkle the Chips into the wet basecoat Protect the chips with a 100% Solids Epoxy Clear coat I would MAKE SURE that the coatings you use DO NOT contain ANY solvent or water! Spread 10 mils... dries 10 mils!
Q: I read the last email message you wrote. I really want to do this. My garage is a mess! Oil spilled....do I need to get that up before adding th first 100% Solid Epoxy Primer? I have a three car garage. How do I do this? Do you paint a small portion and then sprinkle the chips on? We are getting our house ready to sell so I want to pick a great blend of colors that is appealing to most people...what would you suggest? For a good coverage...how much should I order? Thanks. Ardis from NE
A: Surface preparation of the concrete is the most important step in the job. Yes, you should absolutely get oil and other contaminates up before any application of coatings. I would recommend that you first use a heavy duty degreaser (Lowes/Home Depot) and get the oil up. Some people will pressure wash (optional) afterwards to speed up the cleaning process. Last, you will want to acid etch the concrete. Acid etching is pretty easy. Most people just use Muriatic acid (Home Depot / Lowes). The acid etching will take off the top layer of the concrete known as laitenance. The last step is to rinse the floor with lots of water to make sure you get rid of all the muriatic acid. ! Don't skip or shortcut any of these steps (pressure washing is optional). Just like building a house, it is critical to do the foundation right! What I have described is general 'good painting practice' of concrete. Some products that are not designed to last very long will have instructions that shortcut these steps. And, why wouldn't they? If the product is only designed to last a year, no one is going to want to spend the extra time to apply it every year. Once past the surface preparation, the rest is really easy. Apply the primer according to the manufacturer's recommendations. !Some products will say you do not need a primer. They do this to try to be 'the cheapest'. However, pigmented products are 'thicker' than clear primers. So, they just can't penetrate the concrete like a good 100% solids Clear Fluoropolymer modified Primer. Once the primer is tack-free, then you apply the topcoat in sections and sprinkle in the chips as you go. Last, when the topcoat is tack-free, you apply the clear to protect the chips and give that extra shine! As far as colors, every house is different. If it were me, I would choose something to match the house. If you will send us a digital picture of the house with the garage door open we would be happy to make some recommendations. Thanks!
repair--parts.com bears NO responsibility for this ad. Please report ads that do not follow our
rules (on front page).
Posted By: Darryl Burke
Contact: Darryl_burke@repair--parts.com (Darryl Burke) (this is a temporary forwarding address).